2006+ K1200GT Verholen Peg Lowering Kits Customer Comments

The brake and shift lever adjustments went good! To adjust brake and shift all you need is a 10mm open end. The shift adjust rod you need to loosen the lock nuts. The lower has reverse threads. Then you can adjust the lever to as low as you want to by twisting the adjust rod. The brake has a single lock nut. Loosen it and shorten the rod by twisting it. Everything feels and works good. The side stand is slightly less convenient because the pegs are closer to it. I think they are cool. There is more than enough adjustment in the shifter to make things work. After a couple trips around town and readjustments, it's dialed in and perfect.

The downside is the brake lever. There is a turn buckle on the shaft going to the master cylinder, but I don't see a stop adjustment, the lever is spring loaded and comes right up against the frame from what I can see. I adjusted the turnbuckle one turn in to desensitize it a bit, but I don't see it as a show stopper at all. Some might complain, and maybe there is a stop like there was on my RT that I can work with and then readjust the linkage, but I don't see it. As it sits, I can use the brake, it's fine, and I'm not going to bitch about it.

Hey, I'm sold. I tried doing this on my RT, but the shifter was a bitch so I took them off and with with highway pegs instead for the occasional knee stretch. This is a much better setup than the one for the RT
Kevin Ward / 2006 K1200GT/ Alberta, Canada

They are installed. Easier than the US POS's I bought from Bob Henig, but the pin for the pegs into the MV piece is a PIA. The flange is very tight against the rubber, so you have to both push that back as well as keep on the retractor spring, but with a vice and some rags or a good long punch it's not a big deal for a farm boy.

Brake lever is definately cool. The shifter doesn't feel too far off. The good news is that the idler is quite long with over a 1/2" of thread showing on either end, so there might be enough adjustment left to move drop the end of the shifter to match up if need me. The left peg went on much easier, the rubber on my right one must have been off a bit, but just the same, a set of instructions suggesting the use of a punch for alignment so wrenching retards don't bugger things up might be nice. The other thing I would add is an actual torque spec and maybe, if MV agrees some loctite blue or less. Also the big ass screw with the 8mm allen could probably use some thread lock and a torque spec to since it's pretty big and wrenchin retards will just torque away not thinking about the aluminum threads underneath.

After trying these on my RT and selling them and going with ELF pegs, all I can say is, these are great, head and shoulders above what I tried before. The ability to adjust them front/back is also very cool. As I have them now, the horizontal distance to the shifter is the same, just lower. I could rotate it forward and close that and bring them up, or even better, rotate them back a bit bringing them up, but moving the pegs back. It's going to take some playing, but so far I think it's going to be good..

Lastly, I found one other “be careful”. For me, now that the shifter is spot on with the peg, there isn’t a lot of clearance between the shifter and the tang on the side stand. You have to be careful when you hit the tang with your heel to put the sidestand down, or you could knock it in gear, if you had it in neutral. My bike is NEVER in neutral, so it’s no big deal, but I have seen some guys that actually leave their bike on the stand in neutral.
Phil Space / 2006 K1200GT / Newington, VA

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